Topic: A painting adventure

[Eldanesh]

Alright, I'm doing this to improve my painting and the painting of other noobs who feel drastically inferior to the painters often seen on the web, and on thsi forum. So when I finish models, or in between, i will shot them, and I would like if the better painters from around would critique it. Please do not show mercy, the more critical and hard you are, the more I and other benefit from learning how to do it right. I have over 150 of new edition models to paint, so there's lots of room for mistakes. Now if this ends up like anything I dream it will be it may even be worthy of sticky! So please, master painters and just painters in general, tear the images apart and say how to fix it.  Thanks in advance, hopefully this will end up benefiting everyone!

The scheme is "Levy of Altdorf" Combining altdorf and reikland schemes, as well as some of the cities(which would like to find out what they specifically are). For instance, the halberd detachments are drawn from the patrols from around altdorf, so they have a hybrid reikland and altdorf scheme, with red and blue vests, but white garments.

Alright, I have started with a unit of 9 halberdiers(detachment) Here is the first finished one. I admit I skimped on minor fixings and details, but this is the almost finished product.





I'm not sure if the picture is working or not, so for now I will give a direct link.
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc131/RedEldanesh/DSCF2332.jpg
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc131/RedEldanesh/DSCF2338.jpg

[Soju]

HOW DARE YOU SKIP ON THE DETAILS!!! GRARRGHHHH GRARGHHH..

ummm that's my mean mode lol.

But hey there's nothing terribly wrong with this mini.

Time for some constructive criticism though;

1. how many coats of paint do you apply per colour/object?
It seems to me that they only get 1 coat... or maybe 2 or 3.
I think the big step to painting is that you have to remember that you're painting in layers, and each surface requires many layers of paint to make it stand out. This involves not only undercoat, but also the shading the midtones and the highlights. And on top of this, the various ink layers...

I think that's about it actually lol.
Just maintain a number of layers of paint, then you'll get a smoother finish.

Oh, and to have a lot of layers, use watered down paint (this doesn't meant [water]1:2[paint] - it literally means water > paint ratio). Successive highlights is also easier to apply - and clean up if you screw up - when using watered down paint.
Think of it as putting in the guidelines to paint.

Lastly, there's the whole, practice practice practice, experiment experiment experiment, location location loca... (ignore that one).

sj

[Eldanesh]

Well the main white parts(pants,arms) were dry brushed, then layered, all with white. I tried to water down with some of the other objects but it either was watery enough to spill onto other things, or with my foundation paints(blue and red), they look like and ink. Now that's fine for the back (although I admit I need to layer it more), it doesn't work much for small objects I find.

[thabear00]

Not a critisism , more an encouragment .

you know thats a good start really , the only thing i would say is to use blacklining in between details , i dont know how many people like to use it , but i use it extensively especially to bring out the colours of clothing and belts and so on .
i actually go over the little fellas quite a few times with a thin line of black to differentiate between dertails on the figures details , some people even use marker pens , but its really not that hard to do .

Once ive painted and detailed the main parts of the uniform in whatever colours they are , i black out all the armour and clothing bits in a wash of thinned black ( have a look at my fortnights contribution of my latest swordsmen on the "tale of painters blah blah blah " , bad photo i know but you get the idea ) , once i have the basecoat of black its very easy to pick oput the details in other colours , it really helps with the contrast , it is not to everyones taste , but i tend to paint x30 figures at a time , so it makes my job easier to paint  them in a production line manner .

you might also want to highlight a few colours to get some depth , ie: the shaft on the halberd , try a streak of a lighter brown , on the red and blue try a tiny touch of a lighter shade of same colour on the clothing  creases , and on the face a tiny dot of lighter flesh on the nose , chin , and cheeks ( even the brow if you can see it ? )

layering your colours makes a difference too , it is very hard to put a light colour over a dark colour , so keep in mind when painting where you plan on putiing light and dark colours over one another , a dark colour always shows through , just plan ahead , its easier in the long run .

i like what youve done with the red/blue livery colours over a white unifrom , it looks good .

all in all youve got a good start there , cheers tom 

[thabear00]

oh and a thin line of lighter flesh on each of the fingers and a drop  on the back of the hand ( i dont know what that part is called ) after youve applied the wash on the flesh ,  makes the hands look decent enough at 3 feet away .

[Soju]

The thing with watery paint depends on how much you load onto your brush.
If you load the brush to the extent the brush itself becomes watery, then.. the pigments will flow all over the place. However if you can just 'catch' that watery solution with the brush, then you have much more control as to where the solution will go to.

And if it does leak (into recesses and other areas) then it should be thin enough that it can be cleaned up really easily.

The principle is to have many layers of thin paint, rather than few thick paints.

sj

[FlameKnight]

Start with a white, or grey undercoat. I know black undercoats are all the rage these days but it doesn't work unless you commit to doing multiple, neat layers.

[thabear00]

 agree with the above , if you are just starting out with painting figures , a white undercoat makes it so much easier to begin with and really brings out your colour pallette .
Once you're a bit more familiar with your paints and the coverage they give you can move on to darker undercoats .
I actually use both depending on the most colour  the figures will be wearing , if they are predominatly in armour then black is ideal as an undercoat , if they are wearing bright clothing in vibrant colours then white will work better and i add the dark undercoat later on  in the black lining stage for the other colours .
Practice makes perfect .

Experiment with some different methods , you'll get the hang of it , you're more than halfway there already .

cheers tom 

[Eldanesh]

This is definitely good stuff. I will touch up the current figure with said advice, and post it.

[SirUlrich]

One of the key things in becoming a better painter is discovering your "style". I am in no way claiming to be a painting expert, but I do however consider myself decent enough. The way my personal style developed was through trial and error. I believe there was another thread here a few weeks ago where this "becoming a better painter" method was discussed in excellent detail.

Remember, that there are as many ways to paint your minis as there are painters. For that reason reading about painting as much as possible is an excellent start. Then trying out all the different methods. After trying a lot of different ways to paint and also through experience in the way different paints and colours work, you should discover a way that suits your personal preferences. And once you have developed your own "style" your painting will become neater and faster. Or at least that's the basic idea.

Some basic principles to keep in mind:
1) Always water down your paints. Even a little water mixed in will help.
2) Be consistant and plan ahead, always.
3) Experiment a little before starting your mini.
4) THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH DRYBRUSHING / INKING!
5) You can always use heavily watered paints instead of inks if you want to.

My style originates from three things. 1) I like strong vibrant colors and I want my minis to look that way from a distance. 2) I'm lazy. 3) I like clean and clear distinctions between different colours I use.

What I do, in principle, is undercoating in black. Then painting over the areas, in this case the areas I want red, with watered down dark tone (for example Scab Red). Then ever so slightly drybrushing with the medium tone (e.g. Mechrite Red). Then going over the drybrushed raised areas again manually with the midtone and finally adding some highlights with the light tone (e.g. Blood Red or even Orange). In this way the blacklining that thabear mentioned is done "automatically" with the colour blending darker until it is black.

Also another thing I've discovered in my own way of painting is that paying attention to hands and face lets you get away with a lot in the rest of the mini. To make your mini stand out make an extra effort to get the face and hands neat!

And FINALLY getting on topic: I am trying my best not to tell you precisely what to do with your halberdier. If you were using the method mentioned above I would suggest manually painting the fingers and raised areas of the face with a light skin colour (Bronzed or Elf Flesh depending on your base colour). I'd also suggest blacklining. It makes everything so much neater and reduces the "messy" look. Also I'd go over the inked areas to get rid of the glossiness.

If I were to paint your colour scheme I'd start with a black undercoat. I'd then water down Scab Red for your red areas, Regal Blue for blue and Graveyard Earth for white with just a little paint on the brush carefully leaving the undercoat showing where two colours meet. Then drybrushing with Blood Red, Ultramarines Blue, and Fortress Gray. Then redoing those colours manually. And finally highlighting with thinned down Blazing Orange, Fortress Gray and Skull White.
Then going over the straps, halberd shaft etc. with Scorched Brown adding just ONE layer of Bestial Brown or Snakebite Leather.

I really don't know if this helps at all...

-SirU

[PissedYeti]

Don't be afraid to follow the GW tutorials. Or any tutorials for that matter ... http://www.paintingclinic.com/MainClinic.dwt.htm

I still struggle with making skin look good but from your pick I would say add some Dwarf Flesh to most of the skin area (leaving recesses) and then highlight with Elf Flesh.

For the white cloth use Fortress Grey first and then paint over it with Skull White on the raised areas.

If you want the best way to do any color I'd look at what SirUlrich posted but I'll summarize how I do it. Start with a base dark color and apply liberally. Paint the next layer on using a shade lighter and stay away from recesses. Finish it up with a lighter coat that only goes on raised areas or large flat surfaces. Basically a three step process that covers most things.

For anything wooden a simple method ... Dark Flesh basecoat, Bestial Brown middle, and then Bestial Brown/Bleached Bone highlights. Always looks good to me.

Easy leather? Scorched Brown basecoat and then highlight with Dark Flesh. If you want to get fancy you could do a third layer with a Dark Flesh/Bleached Bone mix.

I could go on all day but I hope that helps. The most important thing is something I try to apply to almost everything I do in life ... take your time when starting out so you get in the practice of doing a good job no matter how long it takes. Speed comes with practice ... my opinion so take it for what it's worth.

[SirUlrich]

The most important thing is something I try to apply to almost everything I do in life ... take your time when starting out so you get in the practice of doing a good job no matter how long it takes. Speed comes with practice ... my opinion so take it for what it's worth.

I believe this to be one of the main keys to success in painting. Wise words.

-SirU

[Eldanesh]

Sorry for the delay, I've been doing up my eldar as I have a tourney coming up.

[Eldanesh]

Gosh it's been a while, sorry for the wait I got caught up with school. Anyway here is my Warrior priest, just painted. Unfortunately the flash is not too flattering but oh well.

[Otaku]

Looking better already

my advice would be to....

1. never rush. If you get tired, put the paint brush down and finish later.

2. I agree using black ink would really help make details stand out. On your priest you should use it around the gold parts of the armour to make it stand out from the silver. I add black ink everywhere the color changes and around details on the model such as belts, armour edges, where the hand and weapon meet.  Just dont make the black line too big. It should be very small and thin

3. The most important part of the model is the face. The most important part of the face are the eyes!  I darken the sockets with black or dark brown, add a sliver of white, than a slash of black in the middle. It takes practice to paint something so small and sometimes i have to try 2 or 3 times before i get it right, but its worth it. I like to leave the eyes for very last because to me, thats when the model really comes to life! once you get eyes down, your models will look a million times better!

4. maybe your not ready for this but dont think of inks as whole area washes. only put the ink on the part/area that needs it. I actually paint the inks on rather than putting a ton on all over and letting it do the work itself. This way the model has a much cleaner look to it and you dont get areas that are too shadowed by a puddle of ink

well thats all I can think of for now.  looking good!

[MrAnderssen]

I can see a heap of improvement from your first guy. And I can alsoo notice that you have taken he advice of your fellow forums-goers, wise move. It h=seems to have payed off.

Mr.Anderssen

[Eldanesh]

That and I used foundation paint...

[steveb]

when you are finished try coating your figure in gloss varnish, this gives a deepness to the colors, helps some to blend and offers great protection from handling.  let it dry thoroughly and then spray with dull coat for the flat finish.  be careful and dont accidently pick up a can of white primer and try to dull kote like my friend Dave Hoppick did.   steveb