Topic: Chumley Warner's Empire. 3D printing

[mr chumley warner]

I ahve 10 80's models which i stripped with Nytromers paint stripper, but it only worked semi well.

So I took forum advice, and bought some industrial acetone,

currently 2 hours in, no paint is coming off,

they are in a sealed jar ...

does it take a few days to kick in?

i left the models in the paint stripper for weeks prior to this 2nd round attack!

[Darknight]

It may take longer for you to remove paint than put it on, Chumley

[Silver Wolf]

Toothbrush.
Scrub, scrub, scrub, throw back in the jar.

[mr chumley warner]

You see i want a decent method, that melts paint !

surely some1 must have a solution ?!

(metal models )

[Master Dwarf]

I use nitromors on metal, worked well on ironbreaker not sure how well it works with older models


Then I read your post properly .....

[Denison512]

Use Fairy Power Spray work wonders! doesn't melt it but it literally peels off the model entirely great stuff to use!

Also only takes 30 mins to 2 hours to get the job done

[mbh]

simple green

and or the purple stuff almost always works

[Timbor]

+1 on simple green.  Not sure if it available on your side of the pond though.  Its non-toxic, more or less, and the paint mostly peels off after a day or two.  If any is left on, toss it back in for another couple days.

I have heard of people having good luck with brake fluid as well, but have never tried it myself.

[mr chumley warner]

Brake fluid I tried it doesn't work well!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOrMHWYMpaA

Fairy Power Spray ?!?!?

Bog off, check the video, it's manual labour toothbrush land!

i want results gents!

[Grutch]

NO BRAKE FLUID! it's toxic and messy!  It's such a poor choice to strip models.

In the USA I use Simple Green or Castrol Super Clean which is sold in automotive shops and is a degreaser.  I'm sure there's an equivalent product in the UK, do some google fu and see if you can find it.   Dip for 24 hours, glove your hands up and scrub the paint that doesnt melt off.  Your models will retain their detail.   I also suggest some eye protection, but I'm so hypocritical about that until a little splash hits me in the eye. 

Follow up with a soak in some dish soap and water to make sure none of that chem is left behind.

-Grutch

[Midaski]

Simple Green in the UK
http://www.encleansols.co.uk/3/component/option,com_contact/Itemid,3/

Old guide from Avian
http://www.avianon.net/pictures/paint_stripping.php



Greenies look away now ............... 

What I use on metal models ................
http://www.polycell.co.uk/products/polycell_maximum_strength_paint_stripper.jsp?gclid=CKX1-ZHts7kCFbLMtAod1wIAGw

They've changed the packaging since I last bought some - used to be in a tin and I pour it into an old glass ashtray and work it into the models a bit with an old paintbrush.
You have to mind you don't get it on your fingers though ............

[Rowly]

I use dettol. Always worked wonders for me. Does turn the paint into a soft mush though, still needs a little scrubbing with a toothbrush and/or peeling off with your fingers. And I suggest doing that in the dettol too - doing it under water appears to make the paint go sticky which means another day or so in the dettol.

[mr chumley warner]

I need some Walter White acid tank style set up from breaking Bad season 1!

 

[mr chumley warner]

Guys I've been looking at costing for running off 100 Hard Back copies of a picture book.

The book would have 100 pages of my work, all high res photo boothed images, basically the contents of this PLOG and much more.

Would anyone be interested in buying a copy?

I'll probably run 100 copies , and then sell at 5% mark up, just to reimburse myself for the 50 hours of time and effort I  recon this will take me!

I think it will be £20 ish per book.

Bargain really ?!

GW said they want a copy

[patsy02]

Acetone works great. You have to work fast though, and it turns plastics into sludge.

[Bishmeister]

Cellulose thinners to strip metal models, works a treat.

You can buy it in paint suppliers, comes in a big can.

You need to wear protection though, gloves, mask, eyewear to be safest.

Put some in a glass jar, add model, a few hours later the paint is falling off.

Use a toothbrush to get the paint out of the crevaces.

Your models will look like new.

Good luck with the book

[harv]

I was working on a home version of the Empire Collectors guide for myself. A couple of the example pages I was making below in similar style to the old Collectors book. I gave up as I was running out of good photos. Would love to see a complete version 

[Victor]

I ahve 10 80's models which i stripped with Nytromers paint stripper, but it only worked semi well.

So I took forum advice, and bought some industrial acetone,

currently 2 hours in, no paint is coming off,

they are in a sealed jar ...

does it take a few days to kick in?

i left the models in the paint stripper for weeks prior to this 2nd round attack!

I have only used Aceton so far and it really isn't great. Especially the paint in and on puffy sleves and chainmail laughs at you ... it just won't come off.

[mr chumley warner]

I was working on a home version of the Empire Collectors guide for myself. A couple of the example pages I was making below in similar style to the old Collectors book. I gave up as I was running out of good photos. Would love to see a complete version 

Love it, mine would be more like : 1987 marauder fighters on 1 page, then 1985 GW wizards page 2 etc etc

[Denison512]

I'm afraid you aren't going to have much luck removing the paint without a bit of work chumley! Fps work great it takes lessthan a minute to clean it up

Also i'd buy that book

[InvaderZim]

Use Fairy Power Spray work wonders! doesn't melt it but it literally peels off the model entirely great stuff to use!

Also only takes 30 mins to 2 hours to get the job done

this 100% it also works on plastics I managed to strip some old battlemaster archers quite well with it
as a chemist acetone not working suggests to me the paint is not acrylic otherwise it should just dissolve like removing nail varnish is it some sort of enamel paints ?
I'm assuming the nitromors is the DCM and methanol which should suffice at removing most things again good solvents for removing acrylics
last options in the common organic chemicals would be Xylene or Methyl ethyl ketone

also how old are the models in the 80s and earlier a lot harsher nasty chemicals (Better) were available to use in paint mediums  over the counter with out any hassle. a prime example at work we ended up with a few tins of lead based paint circa 1950 or so still fully liquid and bright red when we looked in side

I wouldn't recommend using HF like Walter white its quite toxic evil stuff and will etch you and your model that goes for most strong acids

maybe bleach could do the trick its alkaline and not going to react with the lead and should attack the paint

[Shadespyre]

Anything that will remove stubborn paint without scrubbing is either:

way too evil to use at home
also going to damage the model
difficult / illegal to buy

or a combination of the above.

There are some 80s models out there painted in some god awful car primer that is next to impossible to shift chemically, especially a problem with preslotta stuff that I collect.

Please do not put acids on your models! They almost certainly won't touch paints of any sort, and will attack the model surface, as may strong alkalis.

Don't even joke about HF, I have 20 years lab experience and I refuse to work with it. And I happily work with cyanide every day, that's how horrid HF is.

I can get 98% of paint off 98% of models, but that involves industrial chemicals, industrial equipment and hard work. Only the latter of which is available in the home!

If you can't get them clean, send them to me and I'll throw the laboratory sink at them

Re: the book, you would sell 100 in minutes mate, surely! I would remove any risk by asking for pre-orders and a deposit before committing, Kickstarter style. No reason why it should only be for $100,000 projects after all!

[Blue in vt]

I like the idea of the book...very ambitious of you.

...Are there concerns about GW IP that would need to be addressed?

Cheers,

Blue

[patsy02]

I have only used Aceton so far and it really isn't great. Especially the paint in and on puffy sleves and chainmail laughs at you ... it just won't come off.

You gotta brush it off hard.

[mr chumley warner]

I'm in dialogue with GW legal team

lol