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Author Topic: Removing mould-lines from hands  (Read 2537 times)

Offline Fafnir

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Removing mould-lines from hands
« on: April 23, 2006, 04:26:59 PM »
Any good advice? I find removing mould-lines on my miniatures to be extremely dull, which may be why I constantly miss some only to have them re-emerge when I paint, but there you go. However, I'm having trouble with mould-lines on the hands. How do you remove them without damaging the fingers? I use files to remove mould-lines in general, but I fear I will have to use a modelling knife to get the ones on the hands away - and that's not something I'm looking forward to doing. I tried it on one, and by Sigmar was it tedious. Cut myself too... :-(

Anyway, pointers anyone?
EDIT: see Africa for more examples ...

Offline RGB

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Re: Removing mould-lines from hands
« Reply #1 on: April 23, 2006, 05:14:31 PM »
Sorry, no real advice. I use the dissecting razor myself, or the modelling knife.
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Offline jlutin

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Re: Removing mould-lines from hands
« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2006, 01:11:00 AM »
If it's rank and file, I just do the best I can and move on.  Put em in the back if it's real bad.
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Offline Kernschatten

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Re: Removing mould-lines from hands
« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2006, 02:16:18 AM »
Try a file. Not a flat one but one with a semi-rounded, ellipitical, or triangular cross section. And use the edge lightly between the fingers.

Personally, I'm moving more and more to not caring. I spend more time cutting, trimming, filing, sanding and assembling then I do painting.  :-(

And for mold lines that you miss try reverse shading. Lighter in the recesses and darker across the raised mold line. It helps to reduce the visibilty a little.
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Offline Racticas

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Re: Removing mould-lines from hands
« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2006, 02:28:26 AM »
I also use a sharp Xacto knife for this.  My left index finger pad has a microscopic maze of criss-crosses across its surface from years of this, though I ususally manage to avoid drawing blood.
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Offline BingoBongoEmpire

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Re: Removing mould-lines from hands
« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2006, 02:54:02 AM »
With metal, I always use a triangular file. The rounded ones don't tend to fit into the gaps between fingers as well, so they miss the deepest parts.
With plastic models I do the same, but if the part is particularly fiddly I use an extremely sharp knife. As long as you never, ever cut towards your thumb (a craft knife really, REALLY is sharp, and I wince every time I see someone cutting towards a finger, or (my personal favourite) towards the thumb like they're peeling a potato.

Offline Kernschatten

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Re: Removing mould-lines from hands
« Reply #6 on: April 24, 2006, 04:24:30 AM »
As long as you never, ever cut towards your thumb (a craft knife really, REALLY is sharp, and I wince every time I see someone cutting towards a finger, or (my personal favourite) towards the thumb like they're peeling a potato.

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Offline Tyra_Nid

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Re: Removing mould-lines from hands
« Reply #7 on: April 24, 2006, 09:37:38 AM »
and I wince every time I see someone cutting towards a finger, or (my personal favourite) towards the thumb like they're peeling a potato.

Thats how ive been doing it for the last 8 years or so, and no *serious* cuts yet!

Offline Pistol Pete

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Re: Removing mould-lines from hands
« Reply #8 on: April 24, 2006, 01:00:17 PM »
I've got a very simple and reliable method for cleaning mold lines from fingers.

I use an exacto knife and/or a half-round needle file.

I glide the edge of the razor over the mold line, following the contour of the fingers.  This should get most of it, but sometimes theres a stubborn but that sticks in the fingers. 

I use the *point* of a broken half-round needle file to dig out the stubborn part deep inside the fingers.  I use this broken file constantly, as the point is so useful for getting hard to reach mold lines or carving lines into the soft plastic.  for example; If you find you've flattened the fingers with the knife, the file point can be used to dig the line a little deeper.
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Offline wisenheimer

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Re: Removing mould-lines from hands
« Reply #9 on: April 24, 2006, 01:29:50 PM »
I use two files for the lines that run between the fingers: a triangular one and a semi-circular one. I use the triangular first to get the deep part of the rut out, and finish it with the semi-circular to round out any lats created.

I use a circular file on the outsides of the hand as it gets between the thunb and palm better.

For metal miniatures, I use a dremel tool with a conical grinding bit. I use a conical polishing bit to smooth out the area once the lines are gone.

Offline Carlo Chaimo

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Re: Removing mould-lines from hands
« Reply #10 on: April 24, 2006, 04:34:17 PM »
I use a sharp steak knife as it is sharp enough to trim plastic without taking out hunks of plastic, and yet doesn't break the skin if you poke yourself.

If you find the right steak knife it works really great for the fingers (although it is still very time consuming).

Obviously, never use Ginsu steak knives, but I guess that goes without saying since those things can cut through a steel column or an aluminum can as well as a tomato!
« Last Edit: April 24, 2006, 04:37:07 PM by Carlo Chaimo »
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Offline Graf von Carroburg

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Re: Removing mould-lines from hands
« Reply #11 on: April 27, 2006, 12:07:14 PM »
I use a stanley knife, and then flip it and use the blunt back of the blade to rub it smooth.

Offline queek

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Re: Removing mould-lines from hands
« Reply #12 on: April 27, 2006, 12:30:07 PM »
if your file-set has what is termed a "knife-edged" file, that is the perfect tool for removing mold lines on hands. 

http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bin/scripts/product/9520-0025

its the one second from the top, note the narrow triangle profile.

Offline Uzmnetosere

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Re: Removing mould-lines from hands
« Reply #13 on: April 28, 2006, 07:56:53 AM »
I'm working on the TK army.... so lot of skeletons and LOT of work with removing mold-lines.
Besides of hobby knife and files I'm using microdrill. You don't you the tip of the bit, but the side. Actually you got kind of milling cutter. It's handy for working in inaccessible places. But for bigger parts (femur :-D) are better knives and files - it's faster.
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