Topic: Are there any good matt varnishs?

[Guvnor]

I've had a bit of trouble with varnish recently, namely that GW 'matt' varnish is not matt.

Not being an expert on the stuff, does anyone know whether it is possible to have a proper matt varnish, and if so where can I get one?

I've been looking around websites, but at the end of the day, it has to be tried to know, o I'm hoping other people have tried out varnishes.

Any help is really appreciated.

[Imrael]

I have a small aerosol of Coat D'Armes matt varnish (bought when the GW stuff was temporarily withdrawn).  i think it might be "matter" than GW, though I've not really compared.

I also sometimes use Vallejo Matt brush varnish.  Its surprisingly hard to paint a transparent varnish - you cant see where you've been.  Its good though

[Guvnor]

Well, I'm not worried about not seeing where I have been, my main aim to to protect the figure without making him look lie he's been dropped in a bucket of water.

I have looked at Vajello, and there are good paints, so I think you're right there.

[BAWTRM]

I've heard very positive things about Vallejo's matt varnish as well as Testor's Dullcoat.

[RendeR]

Testor's Dullcote is the god of all matte varnishes, goes on smooth, VERY rarely gives that snowflake problem that others see in moist environments.

Best way to use follows:

Paint figure
2 coats of whatever gloss varnish you prefer
let dry for at LEAST 24 hours
2 heavy coats of Testor's dullcote (ensure at least 12 hours drying time between coats)

Gives a magnificent result and makes the mini all but impervious to damage. (at least to damage that wouldn't destroy the model utterly anyway )

[Guvnor]

@RendeR: Is there a reason why the matt varnish shouldn't be applied directly to the mini? I would guess the gloss varnish just makes it stronger and that's why you have said to use gloss and matt.

[Donnachaidh]

Mat varnish offers little protection.

A good polyurethane gloss varnish will make toy miniature as hard as nails (well, almost) but you then need the Mat varnish to take the shine away.

A company called Rail Match does the best mat varnish I have found, but it is expensive, smells awful and highly toxic.  And it's a bugger to find.
Humbrol - just don't go there.  It's to temperamental and very good at leaving you with a snow flake effect. (Also says it can not be applied to acrylic or enamel paint, so you have to gloss coat it anyway.)
I have found folk selling Testors on eBay, and that's generally where I buy mine from - and it's worth buying multiple tins...!

[Fafnir]

Perhaps someone with a good knowledge of these things should endeavour to write up a guide for the Workshop? I for one don't dare coat my miniatures at all, for fear of anything even resembling shiny. A guide with pictures would perhaps dispel some of my fears.

[Donnachaidh]

Just found a link to the one I bought from before on eBay

horsingarounduk

They were excellent - I think I received the Varnish two days after paying which ain't bad at all.

Fafnir - if in doubt always do a test piece as a rule of thumb - Varnishing saves you the problem of having to touch up at a later date and is now a must do for me.

I would do a guide, but where I spray isn't conducive for taking photos - but if you use common sense and are patient it's normally okay.

But what I do is.....

Using a very thick piece of card in my spraying station I put the figures in rows  where they will be able to be varnished - watch out for figures blocking the line of spray from the can.

I spray one side, spin the card round and spray the other with GLOSS varnish (I use GW gloss as it is readily available)

The next day I go back and I use the MAT varnish - I spray lightly but I spin the card through each quarter so the front, back and both side of the figure is covered in mat varnish.

All the exposed parts that are liable to wear should be coated by the first coat of gloss being done on each side, but I want to make sure that all the gloss gets covered up by the mat spray which is why that gets turned through quarters.

I then go back the next day to collect the figures which are then ready for basing (another long and laborious process)

[Phydox]

Testors Dull Cote 1260 Flat Lacquer Overcoat is the best I've used.  It goes on very light.  The only way I can tell the model has been coated is when I pick it up, the coating gives the mini a slightly different feel/texture.

Way back in the early days of my introduction to the hobby, I got tired of having to occasionally touch up models.  So I tried multiple coats of watered down matt varnish.  Like 50/50.  It worked ok, and was hard as nails.  I've never had to touch up those models every again, BUT that technique tended to wash off detailed highlights.

I use Testor now, and have been happy.